Back when the oil and smoke incident occurred during the dyno tuning session, the theory at the time was that maybe the turbo oil return line got sucked flat by the dry sump scavenge pumps. My buddy Dave asked what crankcase pressure was; how did I know that it wasn’t just the opposite, that under heavy boost, maybe blow-by (past the rings) was pressurizing the crankcase to a positive pressure and actually pushed oil back up the return line? I said that can’t happen because it’s a dry sump; the crankcase is always at a vacuum. He countered with, “do you know that for sure; have you measured it, or are you just guessing?” Ugh, he was right, it’s bad science to just decide something without knowing for sure, and even worse to make decisions based upon it.
A test setup was assembled consisting of a 200kpa (+/-15) psi gauge, hose, and valve cover adaptor. I prefer kpa because it’s clear what vacuum is – 0, and ambient is 101. With English units, “zero” can be confusing because it depends upon context; it can either be ambient pressure or a perfect vacuum. Ironically, the gauge manufacturer scaled the meter wrong; there’s no such thing as negative kpa, zero is zero, a perfect vacuum.
Warmed up the car and crankcase pressure settled out at 55 kpa (-13 in. Hg). The picture below was a couple minutes after starting it and before oil and coolant came up to temperature. Took it out for a test drive and during cruise, crankcase pressure fell (meaning vacuum increased) to about 40 kpa (-18 in. Hg). Found a deserted stretches of road, cranked up the boost to 15 psi and did a few 4th gear pulls*. Vacuum dropped to 55 kpa (-13 in. Hg), the same as at idle. This was a relief because that’s what’s supposed to happen; the dry sump pump maintaining a negative pressure even when producing maximum power. So for now at least, the collapsed turbo oil return hose still seems the most likely cause of the engine spitting out all the smoke and oil. Being immersed in hot oil for extended periods of time under vacuum very likely softened the rubber hose enough to allow atmospheric pressure to squash it flat. Once that happened, the oil couldn’t leave the turbocharger and filled up the center section and pushed past the seals into the inlet and exhaust sides. The anomaly hasn’t happened since, but than again it hadn’t happened before, and the rubber hose was since replaced with a Teflon part.
After the test and after shutting off the ignition, it took about 30 seconds for crankcase pressure to slowly rise back to ambient pressure – sort of a poor man’s leak-down test and a reassuring sign that there aren’t any major crankcase leaks.
*Ever since the retune, the car is a serious handful at full boost. Even a very slight bump in the road causes some wheel spin at even triple digit speeds. It’s one reason why there’s a knob on the dash for boost and it’s normally kept turned down to keep both me and the car out of trouble. That said, flooring it in fourth on the freeway at full boost is – frankly – effing awesome, as it’s as if everyone else put their brakes on 🙂