The engine builder I wanted to do the work never answers his e-mail and while he might be really good, not corresponding with potential customers just isn’t acceptable. So… a change of plans; I’m going to build it myself – with help. Very fortunately for me, is a coworker buddy was one of the top Honda engine builders back 10 years ago and has agreed to mentor me on the build. Even better, he has all the special measuring and assembly tools for the job – pretty darn cool. Anyhow, first thing on the list are Pauter connecting rods with EDM-drilled holes to lubricate the wrist pins. The exiting oil also splashes onto the bottom of the piston to help cool them, avoiding the task of installing oil squirters in the block.
Pistons are next but will take a bit more effort to define. The manufacturer has a big form to fill out and I don’t know half the parameters. We’re going with custom pistons with a few “enhancements” which should make them live a long time. Granted I’m not building a 1200 hp engine but whatever can be done to make it very reliable engine is worth doing.
The timing should work out about right. The rods and pistons won’t show up for probably a month, giving time to build the chassis around the drivetrain enough to know where everything goes. Starting to get exciting.
This is a reminder of much fun fabricating Kimini’s radiator mounts was… not. It was and is an annoying awkward thing to mock up, not helped by the radiator not having mounting brackets, made more fun since it’s inside the nose cone. Anyhow, the frame under the rack and radiator is done, now it’s “just” a matter of welding tabs onto the radiator and picking them up with rubber-isolated brackets off the frame. As I was told years ago, and it’s proven true over and over, brackets take the majority of the time when building a chassis.
Been thinking about the front storage area and one item that would be nice to hide is a helmet. Right now the space isn’t deep enough for one but since the footwell is fairly tall, the floor of the storage area can be lowered some on that side… we’ll see.
Speaking of Kimini, had a weird dream about her, one of those disjointed dreams where nothing makes sense. I’m reminded of what my mom told me as a kid about not eating nuts before bed or I’d dream, yup, still happens. Anyhow, my sister(?) shows up driving Kimini. I basically said, “WTF?”, and she explains that she’s dropping it off per instructions from the new owner, handing me a list of things he wants changed or added. I remember thinking that he’s not going to like the bill since he didn’t call first, assumed I’d even do it, and assumed I have nothing else going on, and then the dream ended – good! I can only handle one project at a time.
Fit-up the aforementioned front diagonals. The triangular area will house adjustable door vents to pass warm air from the radiator to the footwell – a free foot heater – plus crushable material for “accident mitigation.” Next task is the rack mount and radiator supports.
Finished placing the front diagonals (in CAD.) The trick was to have them double as both chassis stiffeners and panel mounts. I had marginal cooling on Kimini and am designing in a kick-butt solution: open entry into the radiator, minimal tube obstructions, puller fan (allegedly 20% more efficient that a pusher), a splitter to guide exiting air into low pressure areas between the body and front wheels, and a double-pass radiator. That should fix it!
There may also be a panel across the forward end of the footwell to block whatever hot air gets through the splitter. If that’s done it gives an opportunity to install some sort of energy-absorbing material into the otherwise unusable triangular area. Not sure what to put there; I had the idea of a vent between the radiator outlet duct and the footwell – cheap heater? Or maybe some real high density foam that doesn’t weigh anything? Beer can crush space? Have any ideas?
No welding today; mocked up the nose, radiator, fan and steering rack to ensure they package well. Jim, Midlana #2 builder, asked if there was room for a puller fan. Right after I said “No, pusher only”, I remembered I’d bought a puller fan myself, doh(!) so now there’s room for a puller <em>or</em> pusher. Still deciding on how the radiator exit ducting will route. Verified that steering shaft routing is a no-brainer; it’ll route upward using a second U-joint to ensure the shaft clears the driver’s feet and to ensure it’ll collapse into a “Z” in an accident.
Catching up on pictures for the last couple weeks, sorry about that.
Received the master cylinders to confirm the front cover clears them – just. Also picked up 20′ of 3/4″ square and round tubing to use as diagonals at the far front and back. Makes nice crush structures and for rivet flanges for paneling.
Changed some of the diagonal tubes in the front a bit, nothing that’s been built yet so no time or material wasted.
Reader (and first Midlana builder!) Jim told me about a type of cut-off saw I was unaware of. I own an abrasive cut-off saw and haven’t used it in years due to it throwing grit and sparks all around the garage. At the other end of the spectrum are cold saws that cost a fortune so they’re out. So, for years I’ve been using the little weenie Harbor Freight horizontal bandsaw that does okay. What Jim introduced me to is a “dry saw”, something like a cold saw but without the coolant system. He loves his and hasn’t used his abrasive chop saw in years either, so I ordered a remanufactured Makita LC1230.
Ordered brake master cylinders in order to confirm I absolutely have enough space for them and the remote cylinders. With Kimini it took three tries to get the master cylinder sizing just right and it may be the same there, but I have to start someplace. At the same time I decided to go straight to Wilwood front calipers since they weigh 3 lbs which I’m sure is way less than the stock ones.
The wood and clamps at the top are during fit-up of the brake pedal assembly. There will be bolt-on brackets for the assembly with multiple holes to set the pedal position (or not – it’s up to builders.) The way it’s done there won’t be any large holes for dust and hot air to sneak through. There was some concern that it might hit the cover but it fits fine. A nice perk is that a convenient diagonal to the left of the pedals will serve to mount a dead pedal to, something missing from Locost foot wells, never mind having actual foot space!
The piece of wood at the top of the first picture is the hood line while the lateral wood at the back is the top of the cowl. It was raised slightly to make space for instruments and to make the car look a bit more sprint-car-like and less dune-buggyish. It’s still below line-of-sight with the nose so it doesn’t impact visibility.
Slight design change. The front suspension pick-up brackets stuck out nearly 3″, kind of nuts and looked, as the Brits say, daft. The tubes they mount to were moved outboard to get closer to the pivot points. The nose has to be trimmed to fit around the tubes but it’s not a big deal since it gets trimmed anyway. It looks kind of different… have to see what it looks like once done. It was either this or have side-loading on elephant-ear-size brackets.
I hope wherever you are you got a chance to see the moon-rise last night or tonight. I hardly ever use the word “awestruck” but it fit. Between being closest to the earth right now and the clear air – just, wow.
Fabricated the major front tubes. It always amazes me the extent and force of simple tack welds. The far end of the top cross tube pulled upward about 1/2″ when tacked at the other end. It wasn’t a problem and was forced back into place but I imagine the total force in a finished chassis must be massive.
For the two longitudinal tubes a simple jig was created by cutting notches in a masonite sheet, saving the trouble of wondering where the front end of the tube are supposed to go. These two tubes are square because the sides of the “engine” cover sit on the top, and a panel is riveted in to form the floor of the storage area. There are more tubes to add but these form the framework and will make the rest of them go pretty fast.
After the tubes were tacked, the nose was test-fit for the first time. The natural width of it at the back corners is about 26″ but the design requires 28″. However it’s flexible enough to accommodate the increase, and could go a bit further but I don’t want to press my luck. The reason for the 28″ is because the mid-engine layout moves the passenger compartment
forward causing the front tubes to have slightly more taper than a
Oh, and I got a note from a reader who wasn’t real happy about the huge pictures, which greatly slows down his page downloads. I guess I get lazy and spoiled here in SoCal where everything’s on cable modem. If you’re on dial-up, let me know so I can get a sense of whether it’s worth the time to create thumb size pictures. It does take time to do it which is why I’ve stopped, giving more time to work on the car and book.