14 Sept 2020

I was looking through the archives and was surprised to see that 10 years ago, Midlana was already complete enough that it was first tuned at the dyno shop. In other news, my brother was set to do the Virginia City Hillclimb again this year but it got cancelled, so he decided instead to get married, hah.

We finally finished cleaning out our parent’s house and it’s now up for sale, so maybe I get back some of my weekend, which has me thinking about what project to do next, but I’m sort of going in circles. As was written earlier, the idea was putting a fiberglass 1930’s coupe body on a late model Corvette. That thinking is confronted with several issues: it’s not anything new or unusual (but, do I care?); I don’t have enough space due to the sheer volume of the parts; I currently want to keep Midlana, which is occupying the build space; because Midlana is being kept, its value isn’t available to fund the next project.

Then there’s wondering whether I should consider going electric, but that means sinking $$$$ (or even $$$$$) into just the drivetrain. There’s a ton of old Priuses (“Pre-eye”?) out there, potentially cheap donors for a play car. The thing is that I don’t want to deal with hybrids due to them having two systems instead of just one—I’d either stay gas or go all-electric. Once it’s finished, it’s essentially a rebodied Prius/Volt/Bolt/Tesla, which, okay, I guess. And then there’s not knowing how much weight can be stripped out of such a thing,  A Tesla Model 3 is around 4,000 lbs, so giving it the light shell and tube frame treatment might bring it down to what, 2,500-3,000 lbs? But then it’s essentially an electric Midlana. Since I already have Midlana, I don’t feel very motivated to convert it over because the driveline (motor and battery pack) needs to be designed around from the start. It would be a lot easier for a new Midlana builder to put such a driveline on his build table and go from there. Anyway, for me, I’d like something with more creature comforts, hence me going round in circles, hah.

6 Sept 2020

As I type this, it’s 106° F and is right on schedule, being the first week of September. Before it got really unpleasant this morning, I cleaned out the rat-poop infested workshop at my parent’s house, which finishes the worst part of the job. The house and garage are now about 98% cleaned out, so attention is turning toward making the yard a bit nicer before the house goes up for sale.

It’s a sad but necessary part of life, cleaning out your parent’s home, but so it goes. We’ve had several Zoom meetings with mom, her at the retirement home and us calling from her house. She’s both hard of hearing and has trouble processing sounds even when she does hear them, and between that and the typical laptop speakers, it’s not much of a meeting. She seems happy with the place, but did ask why she was there and when she could come home, and that’s when the feelings of guilt and deceit arise, but there wasn’t any choice in the matter. Anyway, seeing us seems to make her happy, and that’s the whole point.

(It finally dropped below 100° F just before 6PM)

16 August 2020

While I’d like to be driving Midlana, we’re busy cleaning out our parent’s house, hence the truck. The task that we were all putting off was cleaning out the workshop and behind the garage due to the huge amount of rat droppings. I decided to first spray it with a very fine mist of water to settle the dust, then blast it out with a strong water jet. Bleach was considered, but it leaves a very strong lingering smell, and we hope to sell the house sooner rather than later. Also, since both the workshop and rear of the garage are nearly fully enclosed, the bleach smell would remain trapped, so that was off the list.

The foul stuff completely filled a wheel barrow—it was bad. I dispatched four out of six mice that darted out as I lifted one of the million boxes, and two rat parents ran off, leaving a crying baby. I did not enjoy that but it had to be done. The rear of the garage is done, and the floor in the workshop, but with my brother being off enjoying a track day at Laguna Seca instead of helping out, means that he gets to deal with the workshop shelves, which has its own share of squeaking noises, scurrying feet, and droppings everywhere.

Next week I’m on-call, and between that and this, I feel like I’ve lost control of my weekends. I know that “this, too, shall pass”, but I look forward to returning to my own garage to piddle about, perhaps after this first heatwave of the year has run its course.

10 August 2020

Since moving mom to the retirement home, we’ve had two Web meetings with the place. The first took place one day after she moved in, and they said “Oh yes, she’s fitting right in, eating well, and making lots of new friends!” They included a few pictures of her, but suspiciously, her face wasn’t visible in any of them.  In other words, we suspected we were hearing BS.

The second meeting was two days later and included her doctor, us, mom. and a representative from the home. At one point in the conversation, the doctor asked the home “how was her first night?” There was a pause just long enough that us kids glanced at each other, then the representative said “Yeah the first night was pretty rough.” Okay then…

I’m posting this so that when the time comes in your family, you can expect similar interactions with these places, businesses that are nearly or completely opaque. You only have their word about what’s going on inside, and especially in these cases, we can’t really believe anything mom says (it’s to that point now), so if she says they’re mistreating her, are they? How can we know? Due to privacy laws, such places don’t allow external video feeds, so we’re left in the dark. I joked that when we call, we should expect to hear, “Your relative is doing great… what’s their name?”

27 July 2020

Sigh, a big day, just not the kind you ever want to have.

Mom’s physical and mental health has slowly been degrading over the last few years.  We did the best we could, first taking care of her ourselves via welfare checks a few times a week (she’s still living in the same house that we grew up in.) After that became insufficient, we shared time with a caregiver, but it came to a point that “it was time.” She sees things that aren’t there, accuses people of things that didn’t happen, says that people are stealing from her (she moves things and forgets), and that strange people are visiting, and it just all painted a picture of where things were heading. We installed security cameras, which of course showed nothing, and suspect that at that stage of life, dreams and reality get mixed together. She also started having angry outbursts, which are easier to understand when viewed from her point of view: people saying things that don’t make sense, things that you absolutely “know for fact” that are wrong. Even so, things couldn’t be allowed keep degrading. When she told the caregiver “you must go home because it’s dark”, in the middle of a sunny day, we know that it was time.

And so, we lied, getting her in the car to go for a “drive to see a garden”, walking her to the front door of the rest home—like walking a friend to the gallows, it just feels very deceitful, and yet, it had to be done. Probably the saddest aspect of this is knowing that with her mix of being hard of hearing, having trouble processing sounds into words even when she does hear them, and being delusional, she’s going to have a difficult or even impossible time carrying on even simple conversations. We worry that she may retreat inward and just shut down.

Or maybe we’ll be completely wrong and she’ll quickly fit in. Uh huh.

That said, we’re extremely fortunate to be able to afford moving her to a rest home. I’m very aware that many people cannot and try to take care of their relative while still holding down a job. As tough as this is emotionally, it could be far worse.

Like I said when dad died, “I accept what’s happening but don’t have to like it.” And yes, the little voice in my head did ask, “so with both of your parents becoming delusional, what do you think that means for you?”

26 July 2020

With Midlana builders starting to complete their car’s bodywork, it reminds me that I need to update my blog. Background: This whole odyssey regarding the rear panel started after I damaged it and never got around to really fixing it. Instead, the area was used to add a diffuser and and to both extend the exhaust and add a muffler. So the area was being used, but nothing was done to improve the car’s look from the rear.

After a lot of thinking, the diffuser is being removed. Why? While they can work well—on a proper car—it looks odd and out of place on Midlana. Its value at anything less than track speeds is questionable (other than getting street ‘cred, hah). Its effectiveness isn’t helped by the fairly high 4″ ground clearance. (That said, the pictures of the removed diffuser do show the expected and desired flow, so it was doing something. One disappointment was that driving down a street with leaves on it, they never did jump off the street into the air.

Removing the diffuser shortens the car by about two feet, valuable garage space that I wanted back. I still like the original solid panel the best aesthetically, but I’m going with wire mesh to aid engine compartment ventilation. If you’ve ever dealt with woven wire, it’s much like cloth, where the edges can fray and fall out during cutting and installation. Having the wires welded makes the panel much easier to deal with. The one down side is that welded-wire mesh isn’t available in many sizes, with the largest wire being 0.03″, (0.7mm). I’d rather it be thicker for stiffness and looks, but oh well.

Also in the same area is the exhaust and muffler. The child in me misses the turbo whistle sound, so the muffler is coming off, reverting back to using only the turbo as the muffler (as the Dodge SRT-4 does, so I read). This cleans up the engine compartment, moves the pieces out of the way, gets rid of about 4 feet of heat-radiating tubing, and about 15 pounds from the worst location possible, aft of rear axle center line.

Lastly, I’ve been meaning to back off on spring rate. As it is now, it’s right on the edge of being too harsh for the street, So the rear springs were reduced from 600 lb/in to 400 lb/in, and the fronts reduced from 300 lb/in to 250. You may notice they aren’t being reduced by the same percentage. The front is being reduced less to ensure that any oversteer tendency is held in check, and because I didn’t have any 200 lb/in springs! The original reason for going stiffer was to make ensure that the rear suspension never bottomed out, but I don’t think that it did. Yeah, maybe I’m getting soft in my old age, or just being more realistic about what the car is and isn’t.

Back to the screen material for a second, which is stainless and currently unpainted. I haven’t decided whether to leave it as-is or paint it black. I think a solid panel looks better, and painting it black may make it sort of disappear, causing the car to again look like its back end is open. We’ll see.

22 June 2020

Though I haven’t been posting here much, things are happening on the Midlana Builders’ Forum. There’s is growing excitement as several builders are reaching major milestones, including getting their cars on its wheels, first engine start, and the beginning of final assembly. So if you’d like, wander over and take a look at the build logs to share in the fun!

16 June 2020

I’m still here, no virus, though I did have a nasty 24-hr flu that shares many symptoms. Just been working from home, and with the 1.5 hours saved everyday from commuting, the time’s been spent getting the 16″ f/4.3 telescope done, and it nearly is.

The design is commonly called a “hexapod”, and consists of six tubes assembled into three truss assemblies 120­° apart. There are several reasons to go this way over the more traditional 4-truss 8-tube design:

1. The telescope is collimated (aligned) solely by adjusting tube length. The tube assemblies are just like the toe control links in Midlana, with each using a left and right-hand rod end to set its length. What’s interesting is, once fully assembled, turning just the upper ends of the truss ends adjusts the upper assembly tilt, and turning just the lower ends adjust its location relative to the main mirror.

2. #1 means that the main mirror cell and secondary holder do not have to be adjustable, which lowers weight, increase stiffness, reduces cost, and make the assemblies simpler—sound familiar?

3. To some extent, focusing range can be adjusted by altering the upper-to-lower assembly distance.

The last point has consumed the most time. Every primary mirror has a unique focal length, this one is 68.7″. This means that from the main mirror, to the secondary diagonal mirror, and out to the focuser has to be 68.7″ inches, sort of. The catch is that the value gets modified if a “coma corrector” lens is present. Anyway, if it ends up being wrong (outside the range of the focuser’s travel limits), the strut tube lengths can be adjusted if it’s slight, or different length threaded Delrin tube inserts may become necessary. I started with one set and found that focus was off by about 2″, so a second set was made that was 2″ longer. What’s left me scratching my head is that it didn’t correct the situation by the expected 2″. The catch is that I may or may not have had the coma corrector in place, and probably didn’t use the same eyepiece. That’s another issue, that different types and brands of eyepieces all have different focal points. This means that before the scope can really be considered finished, all the eyepieces have to be checked to confirm whether they all come to focus… and one eyepiece (one said to have a strong focus offset) is currently back ordered.

In the meantime, servo drivers for tracking start targets are being installed. Some people consider such a thing a waste, but I find it annoying having a planet or star under high magnification drift fast from the field of view, and then the scope is pushed to follow it, only to then lose it. Anyway, that system will take a bit to learn.

Even with composite construction for the upper assembly, carbon tubes, and low-profile lower assembly, the overall assembly is around 65 lbs, enough that I don’t want to carry it, so wheels and handles are being added as well. After it’s fully operational and checked out, it all has to come apart for paint. While part of me would like a furniture-grade varnish-like finish, nope, paint it will be. I don’t want to deal with the time, mess, and smell that beautiful wood finishes entail, especially all the sanding. Been there done that with Kimini, no more sanding!

The little voice in my head did ask though, “A scope, that’s nice, so how does someone who has to be in bed by 9:30-10pm in order to get up at 5am for work planning to spend hours out under the stars?” Good question, but this project and other going-ons in the garage are about planning ahead about how I’ll spend my time in retirement, someday. Anyway, through dumb luck, it turns out that Mars is going to be the closest in its orbit to Earth this Fall, so I’m really looking forward to that.

Stay safe!

04 May 2020

I’m still here but haven’t been working on Midlana. Builders, on the other hand, are pushing ahead on their builds, and you can check that out on the Midlana forum. Locally, car events keep getting cancelled, and who knows when we’ll start risking ourselves in the name of fun again. Here in Southern California, activity and travel restrictions have lessened slightly, but it seems almost certain that by the end of all this, we’ll have all been exposed to the virus, it’s just a matter of when.

Our American culture is such that we sometimes don’t like being told what to do, and often involves mention of freedom and Constitutional rights. What protesters (including anti-vaxers!) don’t understand however, is that we’re dealing with a virus that simply doesn’t care. Wanting things to go back to normal is understandable, but that’s in conflict with a virus that only cares about finding its next host. What bothers me most  is how some people figure that because they’re young and don’t have symptoms (and even if they do), what do they care? Wow.

On the other hand, the damage to the economy is dire, and I heard a pretty good analogy that went something like: “We currently have a speed limit on most freeways of 65 mph, but we could save a lot more lives if we lowered it to 20 mph.” The reality is that there’s a balance between lives lost and the economy. If you ask the protesters, we passed that point long ago. On the other hand, if you ask a mom how much should be spent treating her critically-ill child, she’ll say whatever it takes. Where the balancing point?

Anyway, I’m fortunate to be able to work from home, which has brought to light a new situation, where it’s sort of like being retired,  but not. That is, everyday feels very much like the day before, and sometimes I have to remind myself what day of the week it is. Midi, our dog, is confused because he sees me sitting for hours staring at a laptop, when I should obviously be giving him walks or tummy rubs. He’s getting old and has really slowed down lately, not helped by him hurting his foot while running around barking at the increased number of people walking by. He’s sleeping a lot more recently, to the point that sometimes I watch him to see if he’s still breathing. Yeah, I fear that he’s getting close to the end of his adventure, and I really don’t like to think about that.

To end on some positive news, I am working in the garage, just not on the car. The new workbench has been put to good use, supporting construction of the new telescope that’s been in the works for a couple years now. In other news, the wooden gear clock project has been shelved, as cutting the gears and finishing the teeth is more work than I want to do. A CNC router was tried, but even it left a lot of chipped and frayed plywood. What I’d really like is to have it cut via laser, but the only place that returned a quote wanted $600. So, it sits.

9 April 2020

Between working from home, light but long term rain, and the virus, Midlana is safe in the garage on a trickle charger. If you’ve ever driven an open wheel car in the wet, well, you’re missing out. Perhaps you remember riding a bike without fenders through a puddle, and the sudden realization that you now have a muddy racing strip down the middle of your back. Only takes once to learn that lesson. As far as driving in the wet, anything off straight-ahead results in a shower, and even after the car is dried off with a towel, everything that can rust, does.

When weather allows, work continues in the backyard, replacing our 25+ year-old railroad ties with retaining blocks. When it’s rainy, I’m in the garage working on the new telescope 🙂

25 March 2020

It’s surprising to see an uptick in book sales. Maybe it’s due to people stuck at home looking for something to read, but I’m also hoping that it might be that people have the attitude that “this, too, shall pass”, and are considering building a fun car. Glad that I can help!

24 March 2020

Attempted to contact another hot rod company through their web page and heard nothing. Found an email address and tried again; it came back as a bad address—sigh, here we go again. Called their number and got an answering machine, no reply yet. Maybe they’re on vacation,  maybe they’re busy, but the more time that elapses puts doubt into the minds of  potential customers as to whether they’re a good place to be sending money to. Good to find this out upfront. Before I’d started contacting hot rod companies, for some reason I expected them to be more reliable and responsive than kit car companies. Now I wonder why I thought there’d be any difference. Regardless, there’s no timeline for this project, so there’s time to mull over sources, project goals, and the budget.

In other news, I can tell that people are staying home, not just due to how many people are out walking, more cars in driveways, but the rust on brake discs from disuse. It also seems like air quality has improved and visibility is better, which says something about us mucking with things.

23 March 2020

Project thoughts continue. One contender is the Chevy 3100 pickup truck, for no other reason that it looks okay and is available. Authentic steel ones are still around, but they, like most old trucks, are utilitarian vehicles with very upright seating and short cabs. Hot rodders demanded more leg room so it’s common that aftermarket fiberglass shells are about 6″ longer than stock. Also, the cab is typically chopped (the roof lowered) about 4-6″ for looks. Price wise, a very used steel 3100 is a fair bit cheaper than a fiberglass shell, and you get “everything” (much of which is useless to me), but they also have all the expected issues that go with a 70-year old vehicle. The question is, is starting with that better or worse than starting with a fiberglass shell?

That said, I haven’t really made a final decision on the overall envelope, so letting the issue sit for a while usually helps focus in on a solution.

20 March 2020

Contacted a couple more hot rod shops and they’ve been more responsive. While doing so is a bit premature, it’s necessary to see whose out there and still in business. Some are a little sketchy, with websites looking like they were made 25 years ago (you know the ones: varying text sizes and fonts, flashing text, a total pallet of only eight colors, dead product links, etc). I suppose that could be spun to mean that they’ve been around a long time and haven’t updated their site, but when there’s no contact info other than a phone number, it makes one wonder.

Typing out loud, some time is needed to let this stew. The concern is whether I’d be okay with a cookie-cutter hot rod, regardless of performance. I’m not sure. On the one hand, I like to pretend that I don’t care. On the other hand, I’m not sure that I’ll be happy doing anything other than going my own way. What’s testing that creativity is having a weather-tight cab as a top requirement, which for me means starting with something preexisting (don’t get me started on dealing with doors and weatherstripping, see the Kimini blog for that). Technically I could start with a metal truck cab and go from there—modifying composite is undesirable for many reasons listed elsewhere. I have a couple design ideas about how I want it to look, but am I prepared for the years of work to do a full custom project again?

There are other factors too, such as whether the windshield is flat or curved. If the car is used on-track, the windshield is going to get pitted and cracked fairly quickly. If the glass is flat, it’s easy to have another made up. If it’s some old oddball OEM curved glass, there’s always the possibility of hearing “sorry, those aren’t available anymore” (and then what do you do?). One negative regarding flat windshields is that, depending upon angle, it can reflect whatever the driver’s wearing. This may not seem like a big deal until you’re driving into the sun and wearing a white shirt! (Midlana’s flat windscreen doesn’t have this problem because it’s angled back at a steep 45°.)

Speaking of oddball, I learned of a car I’d never heard of before, a Henry J, which was an economy car sold in the US in the early 1950s. It’s quirky and unusual enough to get my attention, but with a 100″ wheelbase (Corvette is 106″), it means shortening the torque tube, something I want to avoid if possible. Overall length is 178″, oddly close to the 15-ft length that keeps popping up.

My garage has a vertical clearance of 8-ft. If final ground clearance of the car is 4″, and the shell is (total guess) 48″ tall, then that leaves 96 – 48 – 4 – 2 (chassis tubing), for a working space between the two of 42″. Not great, but probably workable. There could be an issue as the roll cage is fabricated because it’ll extend up into the shell even with it up against the rafters. Whether that becomes a problem at some point needs some thought. The point of bringing this up is that a multi-piece shell is both a help and a hindrance, as in, where are they stored? Starting with just the passenger compartment (like a truck… again) keeps the clutter down. It does mean potentially paying a shipping fee twice if the nose is decided on later, though as discussed earlier, it’s highly likely that where I’d place the cab wouldn’t be where the manufacturer intended.

Anyway, around and around the process goes!

18 March 2020

A hot rod manufacturer that I requested information from called, pushing to know if I was ready to make a decision. I asked if they’d read my email, which they hadn’t, so I read it and things kinda went downhill from there. He (and I understand why) seemed to think that I didn’t know what I was doing, it wouldn’t work, and that I shouldn’t buy their shell. I tried to explain that I’m familiar with making things work, which only made him flip to the opposite extreme, which, paraphrasing, was, “okay, fine, I’ll sell you whatever you want, you’ll find out.” Neither sales strategy worked.

I suspect that he doesn’t know what a late model Corvette “rollerskate” is. I tried explaining, but he had already decided that it wouldn’t work. He said, “the cab’s not nearly wide enough.” Not true. The Corvette envelope is 6 feet wide, and their cab is 4 feet wide. That leaves 12″ on each side for the wide tires.

He said that the hood assembly wouldn’t possibly fit, and I said there’s no way to know because they don’t supply dimensions (I left out the part about probably not using the front anyway).

I can understand where he’s coming from. If I sold hot rod shells to the general public, I’d probably be pretty cynical myself based upon what people say they can accomplish, versus what actually gets done.

I tried explaining how all I need are the cab and doors but, being a salesman, he kept pushing to sell the whole set (with nose and bed), saying it would cost more to ship them separately, and seemed puzzled that anyone would want just part of it (how do they not know about rat rods?). The conversation ended with him never saying what the cab and doors would cost, but he did say that he would talk to the experts. Okay, though I’m not sure what’s to discuss.

There are other manufacturers out there so I’ll try them. If that fails, there’s always starting with a mid-60s OEM steel cab. Heavier, but more easily available, cheaper, and with no unhappy sales people. I have time on my side (assuming viruses stay away!).

17 March 2020

Moving pieces of the mental puzzle around, I realized that, without a full-size workshop/garage , this build will be difficult. It would require one car bay for the ‘Vette “rollerskate”, a second bay for the car that’s getting converted to sit over it, a third bay for all the parts as they come off, and a fourth bay for the “machine shop.” That’s basically twice the garage that I have now, but even if somehow this home’s garage was doubled in size, it cannot be one large area due to the exiting floor plan and plot. It’s just not going to happen. Because of this, unless we move (unlikely, especially now), the Corvair/van/Volvo/etc imaginings have to get shelved. So what does this leave?

It suggests using the construction technique used with Kimini, where composite subassemblies were used, carefully measured, the tube frame chassis build, and the composite placed over it frequently for test fitting. During the build, the cab assembly can hang up out of the way from the ceiling on pulleys such that it could be lowered and raised at will during the build.

This narrows down the ideas to something already under consideration: a pickup truck. The advantage of starting with a hot rod truck is that it’s already in three pieces: the front hood assembly; the cab; and the truck bed. I only need the cab initially because that’s where all the work happens. The cab gets placed such that it’s not interfering with the engine. I don’t want the engine intruding through the firewall because it gets crowded and hot, and it’s hard to work on the engine if it’s buried under the windshield. So that locates the cab. The front and rear suspension ends up wherever it has to be, and the engine and front suspension can either be left open, hot rod/rat rod style, or integrated into an existing hood/fender assembly, and maybe it’ll fit. Leaving it open though, means not having to worry about where the tires end up relative to the wheel wells.

This leaves the truck bed, which handles two issues rather conveniently. Since the cab was likely set back further than stock, the rear tires almost certainly won’t line up with the factory fender cutouts. No problem, the bed and wheel arches are cut to align it. Also, since I keep complaining that most cars are too long for the garage, the rear of the bed can be cut such that it just supports the rear wheel arches, while keeping enough internal volume underneath for the gas tank and mufflers. If the truck bed ends up being short, like 4.5 feet long, so what. The truck bed is very straightforward to fabricate, and also avoids the expense and shipping of a fiberglass bed assembly I’d have to chop up anyway.

There are several vendors advertising composite cabs for hot rod trucks (a stretched version is nice because the actual size cabs are cramped). Also, most have doors available, along with glass and electric lifts.

This is much more pleasant to think about, rather than certain other things going on right now!

15 March 2020

Whether you enjoy sci-fi movies or not, we’re all playing a part in one now…

Assuming I survive (mostly kidding) I’m thinking about the next project (does that mean that I’m an optimist? On that note, is this a really good time to do the remodel, or a really bad time? I really don’t know).

Anyway, I asked for suggestions on Grass Roots Motorsports and there are some pretty cool ones, with a few shown below. As you can see, I’m still all over the place. My rules include it being older than 1975 (or appearing to be, for the California SB100 exemption), 15 feet or shorter, a wheel base of around 106″, doors, roof, and provisions for a heater and A/C. Right now I really like the look of the Corvair in black, and the black rat rod pickup truck, two very different approaches. The Volvo does offer some quirkiness as well, and I doubt that early 1970’s ones are worth much. So many decisions…

Regarding the rat rod approach, a search for fiberglass hot rod truck cabs shows that to get one in-hand, with doors, would be on the order of $8K, which is pretty high for what it is. Starting with an old car shell could be a lot less, but then there’s the inevitable rust and rot to deal with, and maybe impossible-to-find body parts.

This certainly isn’t Midlana related, but as long as nothing’s been purchased, and the path forward remains nebulous, I don’t see it as direct competition yet. I have decided that if this happens though, that it’s time to move into this century and do YouTube installments instead of a blog or book. Whether that’ll be better or worse depends upon one’s definition I guess.

10 March 2020

Thoughts on home repairs continue, with future car projects orbiting in the background. The good thing about this stage of such car projects is that they cost nothing, mistakes don’t matter, and all sorts of different approaches can be tried in one’s imagination without concern.

I asked for input on another car forum about what to put on the Corvette drivetrain, and they’re as out there as I am, ranging from Corvairs, El Caminos, vans, early mini vans, trucks, rat rods, used NASCAR chassis, Teslas, and even a Pontiac Aztek (lime green of course to match the one in Breaking Bad). Anything more recent though from 1975 is an automatic disqualification.

I keep going around between a rat rod truck to a van-ish sort of thing, because I want storage for stuff ( track tires, jack, cooler, chair, etc) during trips so I don’t have to trailer the car. So there’s that, and wanting working doors, rain seals, air, and heat. There are a fair number of fiberglass hot rod shells available, but by the time doors and glass are added, they’re up around $8K shipped just for the truck cab. Moneywise, it seems to make more sense to start with a mid-1960’s truck, and then I’m right back to something like what that guy bought to the Del Mar hot rod show, a “farm truck” on a corvette chassis.

I guess it’s pretty obvious that I’m not trying to be unique, but instead want something usable, something that makes me smile to look at (I appreciate sleepers) and is fun to drive. The only downside with the truck approach is that after a lot of work, it could end up weighing as much as a complete Corvette, but with twice the aero drag. Can’t have that. There are complete fiberglass truck bodies, but they’re set up for drag racing and have non-working doors. They certainly are not trivial to add, what with weather stripping, rain channels, glass guides, etc, but who knows.

Oh, regarding using a Corvair donor, a number of people have put V8s in them mid-engine, ahead of a transaxle. That’s fine for them because they can apparently afford the $12-18K for a proper transaxle that won’t break. Also, these builders claim that their cars have a 50/50 weight distribution. I can’t see how that is because a Corvette, with its front engine and rear transmission, is also 50/50, so someone’s incorrect. I still want to stick with pretty much a dead-stock Corvette driveline (engine, tranny, suspension, and brakes.

BTW, I read that late model Corvettes use the latest generation of LT1 engine, which is direct injection. You know what DI engines work really well with, right? Turbochargers, but there I go again 🙂