Cut out the right-side chassis panel; note the corrosion, caused by it raining on the way home after picking up the material and not drying off the sheets. The consequences of letting two sheets sit with water between them wasn’t fully understood, but it is now! In this case it’s not a problem since the panels will be painted, but had the car been set to use polished panels it would have been. Speaking of polished panels, I’ve yet to ever buy a sheet of new aluminum that wasn’t scratched and/or dented – maybe I’m buying from the wrong place.
Anyhow, right after the panel was cut out, the screen arrived for the engine compartment. For a change of pace, the rest of the day was spent welding 0.047″ diameter wire to the frame – and it’s still not done. It’s pretty safe to say this isn’t something that can be done with a MIG welder! It could have been riveted in, but because Kimini’s front grill (fabricated the same way) came out so strong that it seemed worth the effort. It remains to be seen if this screen density is too thin, because the material is a bit too flexible. Doing it again, 0.063″ diameter wire probably should have been used, but once in the frame it may be just fine. That’ll be clear tomorrow after it’s fully welded. The reason thinner wire – and lower wire count – was used was to minimize air-flow restriction. Same goes for the inlet screen on the sides of the engine compartment, and the radiator inlet screen. That one however, uses a higher count screen to cut down on the size of pebbles that can make it through.
In other news, I’ve had a few people say I better go with colored taillights, but as was mentioned, it’s hard to see what’s wrong with it when new cars on the road have the same arrangement. I was sitting behind a Toyota Prius today and sure enough, it has completely clear taillights so I’m not too worried.