On the front suspension, I’ve got a good design candidate, though it’ll have to wait for the front nose; only then can the inboard suspension points be fixed. Wouldn’t help to fix them now only to find the nose is in the way.
Regarding the sportbike shocks… the more I think it through the less likely they’re going to work due to the spring rate and shock travel.
With shock travel of 1.5″ (or 2″ if I shorten the bumpstop), the 595lb/inch spring rate’s probably going to be too low. This is what happens due to all the leverages involved and the short stroke. While the springs can be replaced with stiffer ones, the spring rates end up getting ridiculously high… a shame. It’s not a closed case yet, but if you feel they can work in your project, drop me an e-mail else they’ll end up back on Ebay. If that happens, I’m right back to where I was with Kimini, facing the purchase of $300-$500 shocks, ugh, this was supposed to be low budget. Eh, what I’ll do is specify a coil-over shock of common length. This will allow builders to go “economy” or “nuts”, as their budget allows.
Ordered the nosecone and brake rotors so that front suspension design can progress. The nosecone is for determining where the inboard front suspension pivots go. The brake discs are for measuring the thickness at the mounting face, as it shifts the wheel center outward. I feel better measuring them – and every other component – myself. The seats will probably be next.
I got a great deal on a Tilton hanging pedal set, but after seeing how compact, low, and light my brother’s floor-mount pedals are, I wonder if I should go that way. Than again, when I tried them I experienced what other people have said about floor-mounted pedals. The arc of the pedal and foot don’t match, lifting my foot off the floor. Not terrible, but something that would take some getting used to. I have to think about it.
Got the wheels today and boy they’re big, and blingy! These were bought because wheels are next on the list of must-haves after the tire sizes were chosen. These will be for the street, so they ended up more towards the appearance end of the pool as opposed to function. I’m trying to contain costs more than with Kimini so it means going with heavier wheels than I’d like. What I get in return is a stronger wheel so I don’t wince whenever I hit potholes. These are literally three times cheaper than proper race wheels though about 7lbs heavier – but so be it.
The wheels are from Sportmax which are apparently sold to drifters with Nissan 240SX cars. They aren’t perfect but they’ll serve their purpose just fine and at $130 each, it was too good to pass up. Before I hear, “those are way too big, 17″ is dumb”, keep in mind that since the design spec calls out only tire outside diameter; the builder is free to choose a different size. That is, any tire from 14″ – 17″ will work just fine. I chose 17″ because it’s my opinion that it “future proofs” the wheel choice for a long time. This is my reaction to getting bit from dwindling 13″ street tire sizes with Kimini – I don’t think 15″ tires are far behind. Once burned, twice shy. Also, this guarantees that when builders slap on 9″ wide race wheels, they’ll fit just fine.
Looking at another engine for sale. I keep flip-flopping between building a high-reving normally-aspirated engine and a forced-induction solution. Either way it’s going to require changing pistons and rods, and I recently came across a partly disassembled project engine that has neither – perfect. I’d have to take it apart anyway, and with it disassembled, it’s much easier to check out.