Took care of family matters over the weekend. I’m glad I had last week off and not this week. While we got off easy here in SoCal as far as hot summer weather goes, she still sent us a parting shot. Yesterday in Orange County it was 96 deg as 6 pm. Right now it’s 89 deg inside the house at 6:27 in the evening, and a lot warmer earlier on. Not a bad time to be at work where it’s air-conditioned (though our local electric company warned all businesses that they could pull the plug at any point due to high electric usage. I wonder how that’s going to pan out when everyone has their electric cars charging at work during the day…)
So anyway, what’s next. Adding brackets for Dzus fasteners, and drilling rivet holes for the remaining panels. As far as the tail of the car goes, it’s looking like it’ll be a 1930’s hot rod look. That is, a curved cover over the exhaust and muffler. As mentioned before, a place has been located that does large louvers, which pretty much matches the look I want.
There’s the easy stuff, sizing and drilling the side panels, along with Dzus fasteners for the nose, engine top and side covers. Then there’s deciding what to do about the side vents. As mentioned, it’s been a highly-contentious issue, no one agreeing on what looks “best.” Eh, this is my car, so I have to do what I like… but on the other hand, if it’s universally despised, that kills book sales… and there’s the great compromise. How much do I compromise what I want versus building what most people might like?
In other news, a wastegate was disassembled to see what springs are in them, red, 5.8 lbs, which makes sense because the dyno chart shows boost rising to about 6 psi, then flattened out. I think the reason it rose to 9 psi at the high end is because only one wastegate was enabled (venting only two cylinders.) Once the other wastegate is enabled, boost will probably be fairly flat, and should get rid of the dip at the top. The reason spring color was checked is so weaker ones can be ordered. A boost controller is in the system, but it can only increase boost above what the springs provide, and having 400 hp as baseline is a bit much. Starting at a low boost and “boost-by-gear” allows boost in each gear just short of wheelspin, providing maximum acceleration. It’s free since it’s already built-in to the ECU. The next lowest spring (and the lowest rate available) is 3.6 psi; the boost controller can duty-cycle that up to an equivalent of around 11-12 psi… shouldn’t be any need for more than that – famous last words.